[RaMoto]

The install can take 30min to an hour with basic tools and everything done correctly. The kit comes with decent instructions on how to install and program on the QS.

INSTALLING:

Remove both these covers to access wiring harness

Both covers removed

Another angle

The connector with a block off electric taped to the wiring harness

The connector with the block off for the QS kit.

The rest of steps are connecting the QS wire, making sure the shifting linkage is in the correct position so shifting is uninterrupted.

BE ADVISED:

The instructions says to reuse one of the lower hex nuts and they supply an M6 hex nut to be used above the QS sensor. But it does not mention or supply a hex nut for the bottom of the new shifter shaft nearest to the foot shifter. However in the picture diagrams on the instructions it shows a hex nut at that location. 🙄

This hex nut is left hand thread and the stock one, also left hand thread does not fit. I'm thinking it is also an M6 hex nut like supplied for the upper sensor location but of course left hand thread. This is very hard to find in store so I ended up ordering a pack of them on Amazon and should arrive today.

It's probably not needed but the stock had it and the picture does show it so why not right.



PROGRAMMING:

This took me a few tries so here's what I did.

1. With the bike off and you on the side of the bike, upshift into 2nd gear from neutral and hold the shifter in the up position.

2. Turn the key to on and wait at least 15 seconds

3. Downshift and the QS icon should now display on the dash showing it's activated.

Using my hand instead of foot and waiting the extra 5 seconds worked first try.

TESTING:

Now go for a ride around the block and make sure you can upshift and downshift like normal with and without clutch. The QS works best at part throttle and WOT.

Enjoy! 🙂

Update #1: added more pictures

 

[GromWill]

I just recently tried to install mine only to find that the bolt that goes through the eye nut was either cross threaded or too much lock tight was put on it (or both). It took a couple of hours of heating, cooling, drilling, grinding and finally a vice to get it out. Mine was probably a 1 in a million of not being able to get it out, but if you put so much force into the bolt that it almost lifts up the bike its possible to be stuck in there and that perhaps taking it to a dealer or some fabrication shop to get it out would be better as they don't make the link arm to the gear box that I could find online for replacement. Thanks for the walkthrough though, should be helpful once I get a replacement bolt. (Picture attached is what is left of the bolt)

 

[RaMoto]

Wow! Definitely something that is frustrating for sure. Be sure to either use the torque spec or make sure it’s not super tight putting back on. It can mess up shifting smoothly. Surprised your shifting wasn’t affected with it being that tight.

 

[GromWill]

I got it installed but had more trouble as well. That reverse nut did not want to go onto that back arm without some lubricant and taking it on and off. It seems the machining is very poor compared to the stock one with really smooth threads. It is fun to use though!

 

[RaMoto]

H

I got it installed but had more trouble as well. That reverse nut did not want to go onto that back arm without some lubricant and taking it on and off. It seems the machining is very poor compared to the stock one with really smooth threads. It is fun to use though!

Hope you didn’t cross thread it! I left it off as it wasn’t the right size and finding it was a lot of effort. No store had them and then I ordered the wrong size on Amazon.

 

[EDS]

I'd run a die over it before forcing it or leaving the nut off although if it's that tight, it's probably fine.

 

[RaMoto]

It will hold without. Long as you screw on more than like 4-5 threads. Guess time will tell if I’m wrong lol

 

[EDS]

Engagement in steel should have at least the length of threads equal to the diameter of the screw. In aluminum, it should have about 2 1/2 times the diameter. Without a locknut, any amount or thread clearance will get worse with use but will probably go unnoticed until it fails completely.

 

[R74Life]

The install can take 30min to an hour with basic tools and everything done correctly. The kit comes with decent instructions on how to install and program on the QS.

INSTALLING:

View attachment 152
Remove both these covers to access wiring harness View attachment 153
Both covers removed
View attachment 155
Another angle
View attachment 156
The connector with a block off electric taped to the wiring harness View attachment 157
The connector with the block off for the QS kit.

The rest of steps are connecting the QS wire, making sure the shifting linkage is in the correct position so shifting is uninterrupted.

BE ADVISED:

The instructions says to reuse one of the lower hex nuts and they supply an M6 hex nut to be used above the QS sensor. But it does not mention or supply a hex nut for the bottom of the new shifter shaft nearest to the foot shifter. However in the picture diagrams on the instructions it shows a hex nut at that location. 🙄

This hex nut is left hand thread and the stock one, also left hand thread does not fit. I'm thinking it is also an M6 hex nut like supplied for the upper sensor location but of course left hand thread. This is very hard to find in store so I ended up ordering a pack of them on Amazon and should arrive today.

View attachment 162
View attachment 163
It's probably not needed but the stock had it and the picture does show it so why not right.



PROGRAMMING:

This took me a few tries so here's what I did.

1. With the bike off and you on the side of the bike, upshift into 2nd gear from neutral and hold the shifter in the up position.

2. Turn the key to on and wait at least 15 seconds

3. Downshift and the QS icon should now display on the dash showing it's activated.

Using my hand instead of foot and waiting the extra 5 seconds worked first try.

TESTING:

Now go for a ride around the block and make sure you can upshift and downshift like normal with and without clutch. The QS works best at part throttle and WOT.

Enjoy! 🙂

Update #1: added more pictures

The install can take 30min to an hour with basic tools and everything done correctly. The kit comes with decent instructions on how to install and program on the QS.

INSTALLING:

View attachment 152
Remove both these covers to access wiring harness View attachment 153
Both covers removed
View attachment 155
Another angle
View attachment 156
The connector with a block off electric taped to the wiring harness View attachment 157
The connector with the block off for the QS kit.

The rest of steps are connecting the QS wire, making sure the shifting linkage is in the correct position so shifting is uninterrupted.

BE ADVISED:

The instructions says to reuse one of the lower hex nuts and they supply an M6 hex nut to be used above the QS sensor. But it does not mention or supply a hex nut for the bottom of the new shifter shaft nearest to the foot shifter. However in the picture diagrams on the instructions it shows a hex nut at that location. 🙄

This hex nut is left hand thread and the stock one, also left hand thread does not fit. I'm thinking it is also an M6 hex nut like supplied for the upper sensor location but of course left hand thread. This is very hard to find in store so I ended up ordering a pack of them on Amazon and should arrive today.

View attachment 162
View attachment 163
It's probably not needed but the stock had it and the picture does show it so why not right.



PROGRAMMING:

This took me a few tries so here's what I did.

1. With the bike off and you on the side of the bike, upshift into 2nd gear from neutral and hold the shifter in the up position.

2. Turn the key to on and wait at least 15 seconds

3. Downshift and the QS icon should now display on the dash showing it's activated.

Using my hand instead of foot and waiting the extra 5 seconds worked first try.

TESTING:

Now go for a ride around the block and make sure you can upshift and downshift like normal with and without clutch. The QS works best at part throttle and WOT.

Enjoy! 🙂

Update #1: added more pictures

Hey so you telling me you can shift up and down without the clutch. I’m interested in buying this.

 

[RaMoto]

Hey so you telling me you can shift up and down without the clutch. I’m interested in buying this.

This is upshift only. I was saying test the foot shifter position to make sure shifting in both directions is normal. You may have to adjust the foot shifter to get it where it’s comfortable and shifts good still. I had to adjust mine a couple times.

For a QS to downshift for you it needs an auto blip feature. While this does not have that, you CAN clutchless downshift if you know how. I’d recommend YouTubing that before trying.

 

[deadringer]

I just installed the quick-shifter on my R7 today. I had the same exact problem with the LH nut not wanting to thread on to the lower shaft. I put it in a vise and sprayed some lube on it and was able to thread it on slowly. That nut is needed to lock it against the lower eyelet of the shift lever. Poor machining of the threaded shaft on Yamaha’s part in my opinion. I didn’t have a die for it, otherwise I would have chased the threads with it.

Quick tip, the upper long trim piece that you need to remove, below the clutch side of the bike, needs to be pushed forward towards the front of the bike to be removed. This is of course after you’ve removed the bolt and plastic pop rivets. Just the opposite to install it, slide it towards the rear of the bike.

It took me a few times to program it. Just make sure you’re holding the shift lever up completely when you are trying to program it.

 

[TacoMaster90]

Anyone know the specific size of the LH nut? Planning on installing the QS soon and want to get the spare hardware in.

 

[Kiske]

The nut is LH/reverse thread 6mm 1.0 (thread pitch.) Your to reuse the one off the oem rod you removed. The GYTR quickshiter's machine work just fucking sucks. I couldn't even get mine to thread into the eyelit let alone put the nut on. Had to order a reverse thread tap and die set just to run over the rod to get everything in spec. So much for a 30 minute install.

Here is a comparison showing just how much larger and 'off' the work on the quick shifter is compared to the oem rod... 0.39MM!

 

[Smallchanceofdying]

The nut is LH/reverse thread 6mm 1.0 (thread pitch.) Your to reuse the one off the oem rod you removed. The GYTR quickshiter's machine work just fucking sucks. I couldn't even get mine to thread into the eyelit let alone put the nut on. Had to order a reverse thread tap and die set just to run over the rod to get everything in spec. So much for a 30 minute install.

Here is a comparison showing just how much larger and 'off' the work on the quick shifter is compared to the oem rod... 0.39MM!

View attachment 1447

Bro tell me about it😭 I broke my whole lower shift arm link trying to screw it in. How the heck do I get the threads to fit once the new shifter pedal comes in??

 

[StoneyWV]

Still trying to wrap my mind around the advantage of a quick shifter that only does upshifts. Honestly the moving of my foot is the largest pain in the rear, the blipping manual blipping of the throttle with my hand seems pretty simple. Can they give us a push button for shifting and then I'm all in