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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all,

Does anyone have any advice/video suggestions for suspension tuning? I weigh 215 pounds. My front end feels pretty soft and the rear a little bit too. I was watching Dave Moss videos and know how to adjust the preload/compression but just not sure how they tie in and adjust together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
For those curious, I found this video to be extremely helpful and by far the best video on suspension. I should be able to adjust it no problem now. The only thing to nitpick is the rider sag should’ve been measured with full gear on.
 

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2022 Yamaha YZF-R7 “Blurple” ; formerly 2001 Suzuki TL1000R Yellow ; ordered 2022 Honda Grom Yellow.
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The short, short version...

Adjust rider sag first.

•With you on the bike, with your gear on and a bike mostly full of gas, get both front and rear sag anywhere in the 30mm-40mm range.

•Front sag should be slightly more for than the rear, even just a couple millimeters difference is fine. This sets the bike slightly leaned forward in its 'posture' for sport riding and track so it can turn in better, and 'finish' turns.

•If you are just riding the street, you don't have to have the forward lean if it doesn't feel like you want/need it.

•Make sure you have at least some free sag(sag without you on the bike). If your suspension is topped out, that's bad, as it will toss you out of the saddle when the suspension returns and tops out suddenly and you need to change springs and possibly valves too.

•The idea is to have the front and rear move together without any secondary bounce. Push the suspension down, and it should return to its ride height without any additional motion.

•Since the shock only has one damping adjuster for rebound, I'd set that up first, then use the greater adjustability on the forks to adjust compression and rebound to try to match what the shock is doing.

I notice on my R7, the damping forces from the stock hardware is a bit weak. I have my front rebound only 1 click out from fully closed, and the shock I have only a half turn out from completely closed in order for them to really do anything. Having said that, I have a LOT of preload on my fork and shock since I am 6'-3" and 250 lbs. I plan on visiting my friends at traxxion dynamics in the near future for stiffer springs and different valves to help control those (stiffer or preloaded) springs. Oh and I could trim some weight too. But I like food too much. :D

I'm a huge fan of Dave Moss too. Most of what I said here comes through listening to him over the years. I hope this helps you @Blanzer.

 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The short, short version...

Adjust rider sag first.

•With you on the bike, with your gear on and a bike mostly full of gas, get both front and rear sag anywhere in the 30mm-40mm range.

•Front sag should be slightly more for than the rear, even just a couple millimeters difference is fine. This sets the bike slightly leaned forward in its 'posture' for sport riding and track so it can turn in better, and 'finish' turns.

•If you are just riding the street, you don't have to have the forward lean if it doesn't feel like you want/need it.

•Make sure you have at least some free sag(sag without you on the bike). If your suspension is topped out, that's bad, as it will toss you out of the saddle when the suspension returns and tops out suddenly and you need to change springs and possibly valves too.

•The idea is to have the front and rear move together without any secondary bounce. Push the suspension down, and it should return to its ride height without any additional motion.

•Since the shock only has one damping adjuster for rebound, I'd set that up first, then use the greater adjustability on the forks to adjust compression and rebound to try to match what the shock is doing.

I notice on my R7, the damping forces from the stock hardware is a bit weak. I have my front rebound only 1 click out from fully closed, and the shock I have only a half turn out from completely closed in order for them to really do anything. Having said that, I have a LOT of preload on my fork and shock since I am 6'-3" and 250 lbs. I plan on visiting my friends at traxxion dynamics in the near future for stiffer springs and different valves to help control those (stiffer or preloaded) springs. Oh and I could trim some weight too. But I like food too much. :D

I'm a huge fan of Dave Moss too. Most of what I said here comes through listening to him over the years. I hope this helps you @Blanzer.

Nice find! Now I feel like subscribing just to see the full video lol. He definitely was spot on about the seating position problems. I rode up to San Jose from Los Angeles for MotoAmerica the day I got it and even now my wrists definitely start to hurt quite fast while riding. I had to lay down on the bike so that I could rest them. And I have a bad left knee and never have problems riding but my knee starts to kill me on longer rides. Have to constantly stretch. I will definitely try and drop those levers the best I can. He tuned my R6 few years ago and was perfect but seems like he’s not as available these days or running around to random dealerships/locations, especially in Los Angeles. I ended up doing 30mm sag front and rear so maybe I should increase my preload on the rear a bit more. I definitely do spirited riding especially in canyons so I set it as much as I could. I only did the rear one turn and I’m 5’6 215 pounds. Feels MUCH better though now. I ended up doing 13 1/2 turns preload for front and set my rebound 3 clicks out and my rear 2 turns out? I can’t recall if it’s 2 or 3 turns. But I’m one turn in. Compression I set for 7 but haven’t messed with it at all since I’m not sure what to feel lol.
 
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