The short, short version...
Adjust rider sag first.
•With you on the bike, with your gear on and a bike mostly full of gas, get both front and rear sag anywhere in the 30mm-40mm range.
•Front sag should be slightly
more for than the rear, even just a couple millimeters difference is fine. This sets the bike slightly leaned forward in its 'posture' for sport riding and track so it can turn in better, and 'finish' turns.
•If you are just riding the street, you don't have to have the forward lean if it doesn't feel like you want/need it.
•Make sure you have at least
some free sag(sag without you on the bike). If your suspension is topped out, that's bad, as it will toss you out of the saddle when the suspension returns and tops out suddenly and you need to change springs and possibly valves too.
•The idea is to have the front and rear move together without any secondary bounce. Push the suspension down, and it should return to its ride height without any additional motion.
•Since the shock only has one damping adjuster for rebound, I'd set that up first, then use the greater adjustability on the forks to adjust compression and rebound to try to match what the shock is doing.
I notice on my R7, the damping forces from the stock hardware is a bit weak. I have my front rebound only 1 click out from fully closed, and the shock I have only a half turn out from completely closed in order for them to really do anything. Having said that, I have a LOT of preload on my fork and shock since I am 6'-3" and 250 lbs. I plan on visiting my friends at traxxion dynamics in the near future for stiffer springs and different valves to help control those (stiffer or preloaded) springs. Oh and I could trim some weight too. But I like food too much.
I'm a huge fan of Dave Moss too. Most of what I said here comes through listening to him over the years. I hope this helps you
@Blanzer.