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Sharkskinz or race bodywork install question

13K views 96 replies 11 participants last post by  kdemotorsports 
#1 ·
For those who have done race or track bodywork what did you do about rectifier relocation? And is my assumption that the lower not fitting due to stock exhaust correct? Doesn’t seem to clear the cat
 
#3 ·
I talked with Fred there about cutting a headlight hole in their fairings. The front is extended and drops down further than stock, and since the bike will be used for both street and track, I'd rather do that than be switching entire fairings back and forth. He said with the projector beam and the way it mounts, it should be simple to do.

I see you are not using the upper body mount that goes under the upper colored fairing, is that correct? The black under mount. I might need one of those for now. I did not know when you were going to get your track kit so I ordered the couple parts I needed from the dealer. They are in already, but I did not order that one. Or maybe you retain that, it is hard to tell.
 
#8 ·
Kind of interesting that parts need to be moved to fit the fairing and no alternative or instructions are provided. Not everyone is a backed racer with a garage full of mechanics that do this stuff regularly. Just kind of figuring I guess that if you are going that far you'll just know to figure out a solution.
 
#10 ·
This is NOT bodywork you would put on a bike for anything other than dedicated track days or racing. If you're going to do either of those two I'd highly recommend sorting those other aspects out because it will be a miserable experience otherwise. Whenever you convert a bike from street to track you want to remove all this stuff because it reduces weight and complexity. Both are important since it is VERY likely the bike is going to eventually see the pavement. So your goal with all of this is to make the bike quicker and easier to service. Doing an oil change on the R7 with stock bodywork takes 1hr I'm not exaggerating and it is because of all the careful removal of all the various bodywork that interlocks using tabs and push pins. Race bodywork first and foremost is fiberglass which is to facilitate repairing it easily via patching (post crash). The manufacturers obviously aren't going to think about where should the rectifier go on a race bike setup. They're focused on the street and they use all the panels available as mounting points.

Anyway long winded way of saying yes this is normal for a dedicated track bike or race setup. Usually you replace the fairing stay, maybe even the subframe, Robem engineering swaps the MT07 ECU onto the R7 so that it completely removes the ABS. They build motors that will likely need to be replaced after X number of events to get the most power out of it. Street vs track vs racing are completely different animals.
 
#12 ·
@kdemotorsports

I ended up leaving the rectifier, can you post a pic of how you mounted it? I haven't really tried installing my bodywork yet (just some test fitting of the upper) and immediately noticed this issue. It DOES fit though - if you leave those nasty plastic panels on there (where the rectifier attaches stock) the upper can still fit, although it's a PITA to get on and off. I was going to leave them, but would love to see your solution so I can get rid of these damn plastic panels.

I'll share my thoughts once I start trying to fit everything up. What exhaust are you going with? I was going to leave the stock one on for a while but now it sounds like I need to pull trigger on that sooner!
 
#15 ·
@kdemotorsports

I ended up leaving the rectifier, can you post a pic of how you mounted it? I haven't really tried installing my bodywork yet (just some test fitting of the upper) and immediately noticed this issue. It DOES fit though - if you leave those nasty plastic panels on there (where the rectifier attaches stock) the upper can still fit, although it's a PITA to get on and off. I was going to leave them, but would love to see your solution so I can get rid of these damn plastic panels.

I'll share my thoughts once I start trying to fit everything up. What exhaust are you going with? I was going to leave the stock one on for a while but now it sounds like I need to pull trigger on that sooner!
I thought about trying that but then decided against it. That upper is a bit more difficult than I’d like but can’t fault sharkskinz it’s just the fact that it wraps around and connects to the tank which means you have to spread it a bit to get them around the forks. I just finished mounting my lower after pulling the exhaust. They should be back off this weekend so I’ll get a picture then of how I did the rectifier. But I might change it based on some pictures I saw on the FZ07.org forums.
 
#18 ·
I'll have to check that out. I'm still waiting to see pricing on the GYTR parts that Yamaha teased. I'd like to swap the fairing stay which would make getting that upper on a little easier since it wouldn't have those tabs for where the headlight mounts. Have all winter though.

I did get my lower fitted, everything was spot on there too. For now I just pulled the exhaust completely. Everything has to come back off anyway to start the paint process.
Tire Wheel Fuel tank Vehicle Motor vehicle
 
#23 ·
Agreed, I actually think the stock R7 is kinda ugly, but I haven't been a fan of the latest R6/R1 styling either. I'm also annoyed it looks so similar to the R1 from behind people don't realize they just got passed by 65hp. :LOL:

Pretty excited to get mine painted, although man it's a lot of work...
Funny I had a control rider tell me he thought it was an R1 because of how it pulled off the corners 😂

Here is a shot of current rectifier mount but I think I’m going to move it. The heat I think would be too much here.
Hood Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive design Bumper


And it’s still early lots left to do but I’m happy with how it’s turning out so far.
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#35 ·
It's all paint except for the the horizontal black lines (those are actually electrical tape). Mounting it and seeing it helps me figure out what I want to do next and keeps me motivated to keep going. It's getting very close now. I'm still waiting for GYTR to offer the akro exhaust. Waiting on the gold logos for the tank and then still need to order gold wheels. But the clear is on and the number plates are on.

Tire Wheel Fuel tank Automotive tire Automotive lighting
 
#36 ·
Well I hope you're not racing in AFM because I'm probably just going to copy your paintjob. I was thinking of a red/black/white scheme similar to the new 60th anniversary edition and I think you nailed it. And in a way that won't be super difficult to paint too! Wish we could do something about the wheels - I may paint those as well, I have some red POR15 laying around....
 
#47 ·
It’s the only one I’ve seen that has an extension that positions the pipe underneath where the passenger pegs fit standard. All others collect at the bottom rear similar to how the factory cat is. So it’s the only one I’m confident will clear the belly pan. You can probably hack the belly pan with others to make them work but then may not pass tech if it can’t hold enough fluid in the catch can part of the belly pan. As far as knowing it’s coming it is what is shown in all the Yamaha R7 GYTR announcements. I’m confident eventually they’ll have a parts page just like they have for the R3, R6, and R1’s. Just a matter of time.
 
#53 ·
If you look at the R3, R6 and R1 pages you’ll see they list part numbers for each item. But everything from clip ons, rear sets, handlebar switches, ignition bypass switch, literally everything I’m waiting on. They just need to release the part numbers so I can finish this project over the colder months 😂
 
#57 ·
For me it's mostly the suspension and exhaust. If you know of fork cartridges or shocks that are already available for the R7 I'd love to hear about it.
Also the race handlebar switches and harness. Would love to get my hands on those, and if you have found somewhere they're available please share.
I was going to go with Nitron Suspension but I have not contacted the distributor yet, so I can't speak for that :)

Same with switches--that's not something I had looked into or planned on doing. I was more talking about the more universal parts like the clip ons and rearsets, that don't require any fancy OEM wiring connectors (I'm paranoid about cutting wiring). For the bypass, there is one listed on SportBikeTrackGear. Not sure if links will kill this thread but if you search "woodcraft harness r7" it will pop right up! $52
 
#72 ·
@kdemotorsports @Vansmack

Finished my paint job copy. I think yours looks better but it turned out OK...I rushed the clear a bit and got some orange peel, but whatever, far from good but good from far:
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Nice, I like your black stripes better. I thought about making mine thinner but was afraid I would make it look worse. Kind of funny how so many of these are going to be running around with that paint scheme. Looks good and trust me up close mine has plenty of flaws too.
 
#75 ·
Looks good everyone! Im still up in the air about the rectifier location... worried about a right left side crash. Maybe thinking way to much
 
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#76 ·
I think you're overthinking it. That is essentially the location it would be in from the factory so the same risk would be there in stock trim. Having said that, if you find a better location by all means post up the details. There aren't a lot of options and I've talked to Robem Engineering about this item specifically. They prep the MotoAmerica bikes and basically use this same location.
 
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