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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
For those who have done race or track bodywork what did you do about rectifier relocation? And is my assumption that the lower not fitting due to stock exhaust correct? Doesn’t seem to clear the cat
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I confirmed with iOneMoto this morning lower will NOT fit with stock exhaust. So here is where it will sit until I can get the exhaust and corresponding map.

Tire Wheel Vehicle Fuel tank Automotive fuel system
 

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I confirmed with iOneMoto this morning lower will NOT fit with stock exhaust. So here is where it will sit until I can get the exhaust and corresponding map.

View attachment 318
I talked with Fred there about cutting a headlight hole in their fairings. The front is extended and drops down further than stock, and since the bike will be used for both street and track, I'd rather do that than be switching entire fairings back and forth. He said with the projector beam and the way it mounts, it should be simple to do.

I see you are not using the upper body mount that goes under the upper colored fairing, is that correct? The black under mount. I might need one of those for now. I did not know when you were going to get your track kit so I ordered the couple parts I needed from the dealer. They are in already, but I did not order that one. Or maybe you retain that, it is hard to tell.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I talked with Fred there about cutting a headlight hole in their fairings. The front is extended and drops down further than stock, and since the bike will be used for both street and track, I'd rather do that than be switching entire fairings back and forth. He said with the projector beam and the way it mounts, it should be simple to do.

I see you are not using the upper body mount that goes under the upper colored fairing, is that correct? The black under mount. I might need one of those for now. I did not know when you were going to get your track kit so I ordered the couple parts I needed from the dealer. They are in already, but I did not order that one. Or maybe you retain that, it is hard to tell.
With these none of the factory pieces stay. Everything is molded directly into the upper. Keeping the middle headlight should be easy and straight forward given how it mounts in the center. Figuring out where to cut the hole would be the tricky part. These things are great quality all the way around. I’d recommend the dzus option when ordering because they predrill and use the river style fasteners. There are some relocations required though for the rectifier
 

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With these none of the factory pieces stay. Everything is molded directly into the upper. Keeping the middle headlight should be easy and straight forward given how it mounts in the center. Figuring out where to cut the hole would be the tricky part. These things are great quality all the way around. I’d recommend the dzus option when ordering because they predrill and use the river style fasteners. There are some relocations required though for the rectifier
Yes, looking at them I'd go for the factory fastener option, all set and ready to go. Fred's recommendation was drill out a small hole aiming for the center of the light throw, once you establish that, use a hole saw to drill a bigger circle or cut out a square with that center point if you do not want a circle. Seriously thinking of this set. Then again my new leathers and gloves just showed up today, I might need to wait a minute before making another big purchase. Also, clavicle plating surgery was Thursday, it's going to be a couple months before I'm back on a bike.

I saw your rectifier issue, I did not have a recommendation for relocation, I have not had that area apart yet.

Are you going to get it painted or wrapped? Leave it like that?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yes, looking at them I'd go for the factory fastener option, all set and ready to go. Fred's recommendation was drill out a small hole aiming for the center of the light throw, once you establish that, use a hole saw to drill a bigger circle or cut out a square with that center point if you do not want a circle. Seriously thinking of this set. Then again my new leathers and gloves just showed up today, I might need to wait a minute before making another big purchase. Also, clavicle plating surgery was Thursday, it's going to be a couple months before I'm back on a bike.

I saw your rectifier issue, I did not have a recommendation for relocation, I have not had that area apart yet.

Are you going to get it painted or wrapped? Leave it like that?
The rectifier I ended up just mounting directly to the tab on the radiator I’m not sure yet whether that will be it’s permanent home or not. I’m going to paint the whole bike once everything is fitted and all holes are drilled. Going to be a bit though because the lower won’t fit with stock exhaust. So I have to get a new exhaust and a map. Right now my pocket book needs to recover a bit before I can do that. So it will happen gradually over the winter.
 

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The rectifier I ended up just mounting directly to the tab on the radiator I’m not sure yet whether that will be it’s permanent home or not. I’m going to paint the whole bike once everything is fitted and all holes are drilled. Going to be a bit though because the lower won’t fit with stock exhaust. So I have to get a new exhaust and a map. Right now my pocket book needs to recover a bit before I can do that. So it will happen gradually over the winter.
I definitely understand that. Get the bike, then outfitting the complete way you want. It's not a cheap hobby, that is for sure. And that doesn't even get you in the door, it might not get you too the door.

When I crashed my son had to load everything up by himself (what I usually have to do). He dropped the R6 loading it in the truck so it now needs work done too. 🤦
 

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Kind of interesting that parts need to be moved to fit the fairing and no alternative or instructions are provided. Not everyone is a backed racer with a garage full of mechanics that do this stuff regularly. Just kind of figuring I guess that if you are going that far you'll just know to figure out a solution.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I definitely understand that. Get the bike, then outfitting the complete way you want. It's not a cheap hobby, that is for sure. And that doesn't even get you in the door, it might not get you too the door.

When I crashed my son had to load everything up by himself (what I usually have to do). He dropped the R6 loading it in the truck so it now needs work done too. 🤦
As it goes with track days and racing. Hopefully you get both bikes sorted and back out there quickly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Kind of interesting that parts need to be moved to fit the fairing and no alternative or instructions are provided. Not everyone is a backed racer with a garage full of mechanics that do this stuff regularly. Just kind of figuring I guess that if you are going that far you'll just know to figure out a solution.
This is NOT bodywork you would put on a bike for anything other than dedicated track days or racing. If you're going to do either of those two I'd highly recommend sorting those other aspects out because it will be a miserable experience otherwise. Whenever you convert a bike from street to track you want to remove all this stuff because it reduces weight and complexity. Both are important since it is VERY likely the bike is going to eventually see the pavement. So your goal with all of this is to make the bike quicker and easier to service. Doing an oil change on the R7 with stock bodywork takes 1hr I'm not exaggerating and it is because of all the careful removal of all the various bodywork that interlocks using tabs and push pins. Race bodywork first and foremost is fiberglass which is to facilitate repairing it easily via patching (post crash). The manufacturers obviously aren't going to think about where should the rectifier go on a race bike setup. They're focused on the street and they use all the panels available as mounting points.

Anyway long winded way of saying yes this is normal for a dedicated track bike or race setup. Usually you replace the fairing stay, maybe even the subframe, Robem engineering swaps the MT07 ECU onto the R7 so that it completely removes the ABS. They build motors that will likely need to be replaced after X number of events to get the most power out of it. Street vs track vs racing are completely different animals.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I definitely understand that. Get the bike, then outfitting the complete way you want. It's not a cheap hobby, that is for sure. And that doesn't even get you in the door, it might not get you too the door.

When I crashed my son had to load everything up by himself (what I usually have to do). He dropped the R6 loading it in the truck so it now needs work done too. 🤦
Funny story I was "done" for the season until I got the email from Yamaha about a "free" track day. So I booked it, had to use it before the end of the year. Because it was late in the season and there was no power available at the track I had to buy a generator $600. Arrived at the track and the tires were down to the wear indicators. So off to the trackside tire guy and $491 later new rubber. So the "free" track day ended up over $1k. lol this is the addiction we have.
 

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@kdemotorsports

I ended up leaving the rectifier, can you post a pic of how you mounted it? I haven't really tried installing my bodywork yet (just some test fitting of the upper) and immediately noticed this issue. It DOES fit though - if you leave those nasty plastic panels on there (where the rectifier attaches stock) the upper can still fit, although it's a PITA to get on and off. I was going to leave them, but would love to see your solution so I can get rid of these damn plastic panels.

I'll share my thoughts once I start trying to fit everything up. What exhaust are you going with? I was going to leave the stock one on for a while but now it sounds like I need to pull trigger on that sooner!
 

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Funny story I was "done" for the season until I got the email from Yamaha about a "free" track day. So I booked it, had to use it before the end of the year. Because it was late in the season and there was no power available at the track I had to buy a generator $600. Arrived at the track and the tires were down to the wear indicators. So off to the trackside tire guy and $491 later new rubber. So the "free" track day ended up over $1k. lol this is the addiction we have.
One more quick question - were you pretty much able to trust the stock drilling points they've got on the bodywork? Any major adjustments needed there? They looked pretty close to me...
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
One more quick question - were you pretty much able to trust the stock drilling points they've got on the bodywork? Any major adjustments needed there? They looked pretty close to me...
The tail section piece where it goes under the seat were off by maybe 1/8 of an inch. All others I had enough confidence to blind drill them. Really great quality on these. Did you order yours with the dzus fasteners?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
@kdemotorsports

I ended up leaving the rectifier, can you post a pic of how you mounted it? I haven't really tried installing my bodywork yet (just some test fitting of the upper) and immediately noticed this issue. It DOES fit though - if you leave those nasty plastic panels on there (where the rectifier attaches stock) the upper can still fit, although it's a PITA to get on and off. I was going to leave them, but would love to see your solution so I can get rid of these damn plastic panels.

I'll share my thoughts once I start trying to fit everything up. What exhaust are you going with? I was going to leave the stock one on for a while but now it sounds like I need to pull trigger on that sooner!
I thought about trying that but then decided against it. That upper is a bit more difficult than I’d like but can’t fault sharkskinz it’s just the fact that it wraps around and connects to the tank which means you have to spread it a bit to get them around the forks. I just finished mounting my lower after pulling the exhaust. They should be back off this weekend so I’ll get a picture then of how I did the rectifier. But I might change it based on some pictures I saw on the FZ07.org forums.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
@kdemotorsports

I ended up leaving the rectifier, can you post a pic of how you mounted it? I haven't really tried installing my bodywork yet (just some test fitting of the upper) and immediately noticed this issue. It DOES fit though - if you leave those nasty plastic panels on there (where the rectifier attaches stock) the upper can still fit, although it's a PITA to get on and off. I was going to leave them, but would love to see your solution so I can get rid of these damn plastic panels.

I'll share my thoughts once I start trying to fit everything up. What exhaust are you going with? I was going to leave the stock one on for a while but now it sounds like I need to pull trigger on that sooner!
Sorry forgot to answer about the exhaust. I haven’t decided yet. I was waiting to see when all this GYTR racing stuff was going to be available because I think they showed Akro on there. If so I was going to go that route with the assumption that they’d have a map already for it and was planning the clip ons and handlebar switches and ohlins and … 😂
 

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I keep kydex sheets handy for making quick brackets, mounts, etc.. Cheap, easy to cut and form, strong by itself but you can double it up if you need it more rigid. Comes in a couple thicknesses and a few colors. It has definitely come in handy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I keep kydex sheets handy for making quick brackets, mounts, etc.. Cheap, easy to cut and form, strong by itself but you can double it up if you need it more rigid. Comes in a couple thicknesses and a few colors. It has definitely come in handy.
I'll have to check that out. I'm still waiting to see pricing on the GYTR parts that Yamaha teased. I'd like to swap the fairing stay which would make getting that upper on a little easier since it wouldn't have those tabs for where the headlight mounts. Have all winter though.

I did get my lower fitted, everything was spot on there too. For now I just pulled the exhaust completely. Everything has to come back off anyway to start the paint process.
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I'll have to check that out. I'm still waiting to see pricing on the GYTR parts that Yamaha teased. I'd like to swap the fairing stay which would make getting that upper on a little easier since it wouldn't have those tabs for where the headlight mounts. Have all winter though.

I did get my lower fitted, everything was spot on there too. For now I just pulled the exhaust completely. Everything has to come back off anyway to start the paint process.
View attachment 325
Looks great, I love the new nose shape. I know I'll end up going this route. I want to stop by a fiberglass fabricator near me to see what their thought is on making a panned lower that attaches to the stock upper. I think that should be an option and I CANNOT get it out of my head. LOL I even started looking at how to make a plug for forming fiberglass. Meh, that's too much work. I picked up my new stock tail side panel, and the front top, but the right side upper panel is on indefinite back order. Mine isn't too bad, I small piece broke off the front but I have it pretty much shaped back and in place.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Looks great, I love the new nose shape. I know I'll end up going this route. I want to stop by a fiberglass fabricator near me to see what their thought is on making a panned lower that attaches to the stock upper. I think that should be an option and I CANNOT get it out of my head. LOL I even started looking at how to make a plug for forming fiberglass. Meh, that's too much work. I picked up my new stock tail side panel, and the front top, but the right side upper panel is on indefinite back order. Mine isn't too bad, I small piece broke off the front but I have it pretty much shaped back and in place.
If you're looking for a solution like that you may want to try just ordering the lower from Sharkskiz (Don't get dzus fasteners) then see if you can modify that to align with the stock upper. I think that would be easier than trying to get something from scratch.
 
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