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Could you link some so I can try doing myself? Thank youu
I did mine with a K&N filter, it has a nut that fits a ratchet socket on the end so they're super easy to get on and off. You'll find out with the stock one that they're on pretty tight from the factory and can be a nightmare to get off sometimes. K&N makes it super easy.
If you still need a link let me know. You can search for MT07 oil filter and that should bring up the right one. Same motor so it fits just fine.
 

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I've had problems with Bosch filters leaking at the gasket so I no longer use those anymore. My next or better choice was Mobile-1, M-108 for 2.5" or M1-110 for 3.5". Never had a problem with those. Racing an R6 and R1 you must use OEM, so thats what they all get now. 5GH-13440-xx-00. The x'sare the "version" number, it doesn't really matter# 71 is the current version.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I did mine with a K&N filter, it has a nut that fits a ratchet socket on the end so they're super easy to get on and off. You'll find out with the stock one that they're on pretty tight from the factory and can be a nightmare to get off sometimes. K&N makes it super easy.
If you still need a link let me know. You can search for MT07 oil filter and that should bring up the right one. Same motor so it fits just fine.
Yeah do you mind linking me the oil/filter you used? would be much appreciated :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Lemme know if you have any other questions or need help.....which color R7 did you get? Is it your first bike?
I got the black r7, currently in the shop for a ECU flash and the yoshimura exhaust install
Still need to purchase the oil, did you figure out what weight to put in? Would greatly appreciate a link to it :)
Did you go with motul or yamalube?
 

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Changed the oil on mine this weekend. As much of a pain in the ass that the bodywork has been, changing the oil is about the easiest of any bike I've owned. You literally can't go wrong. Warm the engine, drain the oil. Remove the old filter, let it drain. Replace with a new filter (put some oil in there, rub some oil on the O-ring, be careful the old O-ring came off with the old filter). Replace the plug, torque it down to 43nm, fill it with oil. 2.6L if you change the filter, 2.3L if you didnt (this is straight from the service manual).
 

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I'd also echo vansmack, buy the OEM filters. There's a reason aftermarket filters are banned by most racing orgs, it's because they tend to be leaky junk. Including K&N. The price difference is practically negligible, just buy the Yamaha ones. Part number is 5GH-13440-61-00
 

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I'd also echo vansmack, buy the OEM filters. There's a reason aftermarket filters are banned by most racing orgs, it's because they tend to be leaky junk. Including K&N. The price difference is practically negligible, just buy the Yamaha ones. Part number is 5GH-13440-61-00
No matter what filter, always check the mating surface for the old gasket. I've had friends spin a new filter right on without looking, then watch their fresh oil hit the floor when they start it up because the old one was still on there. One pulled the bike out and went for a test ride. Thankfully it was a short test ride. Yikes!!
 

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Changed the oil on mine this weekend. As much of a pain in the ass that the bodywork has been, changing the oil is about the easiest of any bike I've owned. You literally can't go wrong. Warm the engine, drain the oil. Remove the old filter, let it drain. Replace with a new filter (put some oil in there, rub some oil on the O-ring, be careful the old O-ring came off with the old filter). Replace the plug, torque it down to 43nm, fill it with oil. 2.6L if you change the filter, 2.3L if you didnt (this is straight from the service manual).

There is an old and recurrent mistake in the Yamaha manual. Since MT/FZ-07 days. You may torque just to the half of it to avoid stripping the thread with the oil drain bolt.

A new oil pan is not that expensive, but it is a mess to destroy the thread. Something less than 20 Nm, or about 15 ft-lbs is recommended.
 
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