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Dash turned off while riding, dead battery?

249 Views 3 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  BravoR7
Hello all. First post here, sorry if I add to many details. I am just trying to give a full backstory of the situation. I have tried searching for anything similar to the issue I'm having but haven't found anything that sounds like what happened to me...

Today as I was riding home from work on my '23 R7, in a matter of about 5-10 seconds, my check engine light turned on and my ABS engaged, then after a couple of seconds the dash turned off, headlight started flickering, then the engine stalled out.

I pulled of to the side of the road and tried to turn the ignition off and on again, no luck. I assumed it was just a dead battery that just so happened to give weird behavior since it died while I was riding, which has never happened to me before. I ended up pushing the bike around 2 miles to the next freeway exit and pulled it into a Plaid Pantry parking lot. Fortunately the cashier was nice and said he was ok with me plugging in a small battery charger I usually keep in my bag. I charged the battery for about 4 hours and then put the seat back together. I got about 6 miles down the road and the same thing happened again. I had luckily just made it to the top of a hill so I pulled off into the shoulder, put the bike in neutral and slowly coasted about 2 miles down the hill and into a parking lot. I parked the bike, locked it, and gave my family member a call to see if I could get a ride home so I could get a trailer and tow it home. I ended up towing it home. I plugged the battery into a charger, and it said it was healthy and fully charged... So apparently, I still had some issues to figure out.

I reinstalled the battery and when I try to turn the bike over it clicks rapidly, as you would expect with a dead battery, which confuses me since the battery charger sees it as a healthy battery. While the clicking is happening the temp sensor on the dash reads "Hi°C" even when the engine is cold to the touch, then the dash turns off and resets. The check engine light is still on, I ordered an OBD2 to 6pin adapter since I couldn't find one at CycleGear, I'll check the code when it arrives and update later. I'm gonna buy a new battery over the weekend as well just to be certain it's not caused by that. I want to try and exhaust my knowledge of some simpler things to check before I take it to the dealership to look at. I saw a post about how the wiring from the battery should be separated but when I had pulled the battery out to charge it I saw the leads were running parallel to each other, I'm just hoping it's not electrical damage or a problem with the wiring harness.

If anyone has experienced any of this behavior please leave a reply. Also suggestions on any other possible failure points to check are much appreciated.

EDIT 1:
On 5/27 - I ended up testing the battery with a multimeter, the battery was at 5.2v whereas it should be around 12v. I got a new battery and connected it up later that night, tried to turn it over anddddd the issue was still there. I decided to probe the new battery with the multimeter because "hey, maybe it's been on the shelf too long and has died a little." The new battery was at 10.5v so I plugged it in and it was at 12.3v by morning the next day. I was busy all day 5/28 so didn't do anything after disconnecting the new battery from the charger. The OBD2 -> 6pin (EURO5) adapter came as well this day.

On 5/29 - I made sure the battery was still charged so probed it with the multimeter and it was still running at 12.3v. Installed the new battery and the bike finally turned over. the check engine light was still on so I checked it. Code came out as P062F. I couldn't find anything on this R7 forum about it but I decided to check the R1 forum. I saw a post here about how this may be the ECU reading 12v from a 5v sensor. In my case I guess it could be the ECU having seen 5v from a 12v sensor? I'm not sure how my battery charger was seeing it as a healthy battery unless it was so dead that it assumed the battery was a 5v battery.

EDIT 2:
On 5/30 - This morning I cleared the code and started the bike back up. The bike started normally and the code didn't instantly return so I'm hopeful now. I should have some time later today to ride the bike around to see if it comes back or not. I'll come give another update once I know more.
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the normal manufacturer's battery is so bad, I'm about to replace it with a brand I trust using Antigravity AT-Z7 (I'm not sure if it has enough)

because there's another pretty detailed post here:

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the normal manufacturer's battery is so bad, I'm about to replace it with a brand I trust using Antigravity AT-Z7 (I'm not sure if it has enough)

because there's another pretty detailed post here:
Just looked a bit at this. A battery upgrade is something the definitely seems like it would be worth it. This exact one you mentioned looks a bit small and the ATZ10 looks like the better model for replacement. I'm for sure going to look into a Li-Ion pack and return the new OEM one.


I'd recommend you take your bike to the dealer , it looks like you may have improperly written code or a bad ECU. You're still under warranty for this repair.
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