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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Tore out the ABS system this weekend. The speedo does indeed stop working - even leaving the speed sensor wires intact and connected and only disabling ABS (literally unplugged from the ECU in this case for a test ride) still killed the speedo. There may be some fuse combination that disables ABS but keeps the speedo working.

I don't care about the speedo as this will be a dedicated track bike, and stock speedos are pretty inaccurate anyway. I'll have access to accurate speeds via GPS on my laptimer if I really need them.

Everything in this pic except the horn was part of the ABS system, mile and miles of hoses and conduit:

Bicycle handlebar Bicycle part Twig Wire Art


Here is the actual ABS module's home, just under the right side fairing by the tank (front hoses already removed in this pic):
Automotive fuel system Blue Motor vehicle Light Automotive design


Pretty easy process, but you have to physically cut the hard lines running back to the rear brake. Also note that there's 3 bolts holding the module in place - 2 underneath which are easy to access, and then one on the backside that you need to get at with a long socket extension from the left side of the bike. There's also a zillion little metal brackets and connectors for everything that you can remove and really clean up the bike and make accessing everything easier. I used the Spiegler non-AS R6 kit for the front and it's a perfect fit. The R6 rear kit is NOT a good fit though, and we'll need to order a custom hose for that (very short, maybe 12").

Also replaced the pads with some Vesrah's. Taking the bike to the track tomorrow and will report back on how it feels. :D

DISCLAIMER: I do NOT recommend doing this for a street bike. For one thing, I'm a big fan of the ABS safety net on the street, and for another thing this process is impossible to reverse - given the extremely long runs of stiff metal hydraulic conduit, it's impossible to remove without cutting and would like be impossible to replace without a major bike teardown even with fresh parts. Also I'm sure it voids the shit out of your warranty. :geek:
 

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Tore out the ABS system this weekend. The speedo does indeed stop working - even leaving the speed sensor wires intact and connected and only disabling ABS (literally unplugged from the ECU in this case for a test ride) still killed the speedo. There may be some fuse combination that disables ABS but keeps the speedo working.

I don't care about the speedo as this will be a dedicated track bike, and stock speedos are pretty inaccurate anyway. I'll have access to accurate speeds via GPS on my laptimer if I really need them.

Everything in this pic except the horn was part of the ABS system, mile and miles of hoses and conduit:

View attachment 267

Here is the actual ABS module's home, just under the right side fairing by the tank (front hoses already removed in this pic):
View attachment 264

Pretty easy process, but you have to physically cut the hard lines running back to the rear brake. Also note that there's 3 bolts holding the module in place - 2 underneath which are easy to access, and then one on the backside that you need to get at with a long socket extension from the left side of the bike. There's also a zillion little metal brackets and connectors for everything that you can remove and really clean up the bike and make accessing everything easier. I used the Spiegler non-AS R6 kit for the front and it's a perfect fit. The R6 rear kit is NOT a good fit though, and we'll need to order a custom hose for that (very short, maybe 12").

Also replaced the pads with some Vesrah's. Taking the bike to the track tomorrow and will report back on how it feels. :D

DISCLAIMER: I do NOT recommend doing this for a street bike. For one thing, I'm a big fan of the ABS safety net on the street, and for another thing this process is impossible to reverse - given the extremely long runs of stiff metal hydraulic conduit, it's impossible to remove without cutting and would like be impossible to replace without a major bike teardown even with fresh parts. Also I'm sure it voids the shit out of your warranty. :geek:
I’ll be following this one. I’d like to drop the stuff too I’m in the same boat. Mine is a dedicated track bike. Just easier access alone is worth it to me. Weird that the ABS is connected to the speedo though
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
@kdemotorsports @Vansmack @EL_BOMBERO @magpie @tooblekain

Couple notes after having the bike on track post-removal:

  1. The brakes feel SO MUCH BETTER with a direct stainless line.
  2. Unfortunately, full ABS removal also disables the quickshifter and the speedo (as mentioned above).
  3. If you plug in the ABS module itself AND the rear speed sensor you get BOTH the speedo back AND the quickshifter back. The front speed sensor is not needed, nor are any of the hoses or other ABS parts.
So for now, I'm running with the rear wheel speed sensor and the ABS module plugged in. ABS is still fully disabled (no hoses or anything running to the module) and most of the weight savings are realized. Hopefully an ECU flash or harness plug fixes this in the future and I can remove the module itself. The bike still thinks ABS is working so the ABS light goes out on the dash again too, which I guess is a nice little bonus.
 

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@kdemotorsports @Vansmack @EL_BOMBERO @magpie @tooblekain

Couple notes after having the bike on track post-removal:

  1. The brakes feel SO MUCH BETTER with a direct stainless line.
  2. Unfortunately, full ABS removal also disables the quickshifter and the speedo (as mentioned above).
  3. If you plug in the ABS module itself AND the rear speed sensor you get BOTH the speedo back AND the quickshifter back. The front speed sensor is not needed, nor are any of the hoses or other ABS parts.
So for now, I'm running with the rear wheel speed sensor and the ABS module plugged in. ABS is still fully disabled (no hoses or anything running to the module) and most of the weight savings are realized. Hopefully an ECU flash or harness plug fixes this in the future and I can remove the module itself. The bike still thinks ABS is working so the ABS light goes out on the dash again too, which I guess is a nice little bonus.
Tore out the ABS system this weekend. The speedo does indeed stop working - even leaving the speed sensor wires intact and connected and only disabling ABS (literally unplugged from the ECU in this case for a test ride) still killed the speedo. There may be some fuse combination that disables ABS but keeps the speedo working.

I don't care about the speedo as this will be a dedicated track bike, and stock speedos are pretty inaccurate anyway. I'll have access to accurate speeds via GPS on my laptimer if I really need them.

Everything in this pic except the horn was part of the ABS system, mile and miles of hoses and conduit:

View attachment 267

Here is the actual ABS module's home, just under the right side fairing by the tank (front hoses already removed in this pic):
View attachment 264

Pretty easy process, but you have to physically cut the hard lines running back to the rear brake. Also note that there's 3 bolts holding the module in place - 2 underneath which are easy to access, and then one on the backside that you need to get at with a long socket extension from the left side of the bike. There's also a zillion little metal brackets and connectors for everything that you can remove and really clean up the bike and make accessing everything easier. I used the Spiegler non-AS R6 kit for the front and it's a perfect fit. The R6 rear kit is NOT a good fit though, and we'll need to order a custom hose for that (very short, maybe 12").

Also replaced the pads with some Vesrah's. Taking the bike to the track tomorrow and will report back on how it feels. :D

DISCLAIMER: I do NOT recommend doing this for a street bike. For one thing, I'm a big fan of the ABS safety net on the street, and for another thing this process is impossible to reverse - given the extremely long runs of stiff metal hydraulic conduit, it's impossible to remove without cutting and would like be impossible to replace without a major bike teardown even with fresh parts. Also I'm sure it voids the shit out of your warranty. :geek:
I removed my ABS system my Rc390 many years ago. But I was able to cut off the abs module and keep the circuit board and connectors. So there was no abs lights and I kept my speedo. This is not for the faint of heart. U have to b Gentle and cut between the metal and plastic and then hot glue a pc of plastic back to the unit. And place it and zip tie it where ever it fits. I will b doing this in the off season. Wish me luck.
 

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@kdemotorsports @Vansmack @EL_BOMBERO @magpie @tooblekain

Couple notes after having the bike on track post-removal:

  1. The brakes feel SO MUCH BETTER with a direct stainless line.
  2. Unfortunately, full ABS removal also disables the quickshifter and the speedo (as mentioned above).
  3. If you plug in the ABS module itself AND the rear speed sensor you get BOTH the speedo back AND the quickshifter back. The front speed sensor is not needed, nor are any of the hoses or other ABS parts.
So for now, I'm running with the rear wheel speed sensor and the ABS module plugged in. ABS is still fully disabled (no hoses or anything running to the module) and most of the weight savings are realized. Hopefully an ECU flash or harness plug fixes this in the future and I can remove the module itself. The bike still thinks ABS is working so the ABS light goes out on the dash again too, which I guess is a nice little bonus.
Very nice! And THANKS!! As I have said, initially I just pulled the ABS Solenoid fuse and that disabled it, with a light. Next is the new lines. By the way, which line routing did you end up with?

I like the fact of the front speed sensor being unnecessary, that wire wraps all over the place, it would have been spooled up for sure, I'd rather it just be gone. I do have a pre-release Flash Tune in the ECU but no changes could be made and ABS seems to still be "active", although the fuse is still out so it does not work.

I can hardly wait for the line change, but then again I cannot ride right now so meh. Brand new custom leathers should be received any day now and I don't think I'd be able to even try them on right now. This sucks, but my fault.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Very nice! And THANKS!! As I have said, initially I just pulled the ABS Solenoid fuse and that disabled it, with a light. Next is the new lines. By the way, which line routing did you end up with?

I like the fact of the front speed sensor being unnecessary, that wire wraps all over the place, it would have been spooled up for sure, I'd rather it just be gone. I do have a pre-release Flash Tune in the ECU but no changes could be made and ABS seems to still be "active", although the fuse is still out so it does not work.

I can hardly wait for the line change, but then again I cannot ride right now so meh. Brand new custom leathers should be received any day now and I don't think I'd be able to even try them on right now. This sucks, but my fault.
I got the "rennsport" spiegler kit, which is basically the version with a single banjo on the MC and a T-fitting down below that splits off to both calipers. I bought the non-ABS kit for the 17-20 R6. I won't post a link here since that tends to kill threads, but if you google this: S-YA0316 you'll find it. Fits great, no issues whatsoever.

And yeah the front wheel speed cable is way too long, runs back and forth all over the place, I don't understand why they did it that way. The rear one is a nice clean straight shot so I don't have any heartburn leaving that one on there to maintain the speedo and QS.

What suit did you go with?
 

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I got the "rennsport" spiegler kit, which is basically the version with a single banjo on the MC and a T-fitting down below that splits off to both calipers. I bought the non-ABS kit for the 17-20 R6. I won't post a link here since that tends to kill threads, but if you google this: S-YA0316 you'll find it. Fits great, no issues whatsoever.

And yeah the front wheel speed cable is way too long, runs back and forth all over the place, I don't understand why they did it that way. The rear one is a nice clean straight shot so I don't have any heartburn leaving that one on there to maintain the speedo and QS.

What suit did you go with?
Heroic Racing out of New York. My son and I have been using their gloves for a few years, we love them. Kangaroo with stingray skin pads in high wear areas. midsection expanded for easier movement. Back protector built in. Upgraded armor throughout. More gloves. LOL
Toy Sleeve Mammal Font Technology
 

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I flew to Philly for a long weekend, drove up to Long Island on a Monday with a friend to be fitted and to design the suit with the owner of Heroic, Todd. And of course my friend got to have her input on the design. LOL Had the absolute BEST lasagna I've ever had at a place around the corner. Great weekend.
 

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Tore out the ABS system this weekend. The speedo does indeed stop working - even leaving the speed sensor wires intact and connected and only disabling ABS (literally unplugged from the ECU in this case for a test ride) still killed the speedo. There may be some fuse combination that disables ABS but keeps the speedo working.

I don't care about the speedo as this will be a dedicated track bike, and stock speedos are pretty inaccurate anyway. I'll have access to accurate speeds via GPS on my laptimer if I really need them.

Everything in this pic except the horn was part of the ABS system, mile and miles of hoses and conduit:

View attachment 267

Here is the actual ABS module's home, just under the right side fairing by the tank (front hoses already removed in this pic):
View attachment 264

Pretty easy process, but you have to physically cut the hard lines running back to the rear brake. Also note that there's 3 bolts holding the module in place - 2 underneath which are easy to access, and then one on the backside that you need to get at with a long socket extension from the left side of the bike. There's also a zillion little metal brackets and connectors for everything that you can remove and really clean up the bike and make accessing everything easier. I used the Spiegler non-AS R6 kit for the front and it's a perfect fit. The R6 rear kit is NOT a good fit though, and we'll need to order a custom hose for that (very short, maybe 12").

Also replaced the pads with some Vesrah's. Taking the bike to the track tomorrow and will report back on how it feels. :D

DISCLAIMER: I do NOT recommend doing this for a street bike. For one thing, I'm a big fan of the ABS safety net on the street, and for another thing this process is impossible to reverse - given the extremely long runs of stiff metal hydraulic conduit, it's impossible to remove without cutting and would like be impossible to replace without a major bike teardown even with fresh parts. Also I'm sure it voids the shit out of your warranty. :geek:
(All you had to do was take the screw out holding the abs wire on your brake bracket then zip tie to brake lines takes 2 seconds
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I think you're missing the point, we're talking about removal of the ABS system for converting track/race bikes. There's a million ways to simply disable it (pull the fuses, etc), and if you wanna ride around with your speed sensor zip tied to your swingarm, you do you.
 

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I think you're missing the point, we're talking about removal of the ABS system for converting track/race bikes. There's a million ways to simply disable it (pull the fuses, etc), and if you wanna ride around with your speed sensor zip tied to your swingarm, you do you.
Yea I did miss that part I was just was saying a easy way so chill
 

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Nice work guys! I can probably live with leaving the ABS module on there as well as the OEM rear brake lines since I want to have a functioning speedometer (and possibly quick-shifter) and want a simple non-ABS stainless steel line(s) run directly from calipers to master cylinder.
 

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@kdemotorsports @Vansmack @EL_BOMBERO @magpie @tooblekain

Couple notes after having the bike on track post-removal:

  1. The brakes feel SO MUCH BETTER with a direct stainless line.
  2. Unfortunately, full ABS removal also disables the quickshifter and the speedo (as mentioned above).
  3. If you plug in the ABS module itself AND the rear speed sensor you get BOTH the speedo back AND the quickshifter back. The front speed sensor is not needed, nor are any of the hoses or other ABS parts.
So for now, I'm running with the rear wheel speed sensor and the ABS module plugged in. ABS is still fully disabled (no hoses or anything running to the module) and most of the weight savings are realized. Hopefully an ECU flash or harness plug fixes this in the future and I can remove the module itself. The bike still thinks ABS is working so the ABS light goes out on the dash again too, which I guess is a nice little bonus.
I missed this post and my bodywork just came in so everything is easy to get to now. I'm not sure I know exactly what I need to remove though if I want to go with option #3. I'd like to retain the speedo and I'm ok with leaving the rear speed sensor on. But do you have any details on lines to buy? Also do you leave that block on the rear or can you get rid of that?

Any help is greatly appreciated. I have my winter project getting this all setup for dedicated track/racing use.
 

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BTW One more thing I talked to the Robem guys and they said they actually switch everything over to the MT07. So ECU and all then do a new dedicated wiring harness on the R7's they prepare.
 

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There is a couple different ways to do this. U could just leave abs system on and put bolts the fit the extra holes on abs module. And use braided lines directly to masters. But for weight savings removal of whole systems is better. But u will lose speedo function. I wanted to keep my speedo, on my ktm so what I did is, cut between the abs module and the black plug in circuit board part. There is metal brackets molded from abs module to black plastic parts. It will not just pull apart. I used a very thin serrated blade and took my time. But it paid off, then hot glue a piece of plastic in its place and zip ties it. I will b doing this on R7 after season it over. I have 2 more track days left this weekend. And many extra parts coming in soon. HAPPY BUILDING
P.S. I also purchased a other abs module just in I F-ED it up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I missed this post and my bodywork just came in so everything is easy to get to now. I'm not sure I know exactly what I need to remove though if I want to go with option #3. I'd like to retain the speedo and I'm ok with leaving the rear speed sensor on. But do you have any details on lines to buy? Also do you leave that block on the rear or can you get rid of that?

Any help is greatly appreciated. I have my winter project getting this all setup for dedicated track/racing use.
You want to remove everything but the ABS module itself (mine is literally just plugged into the ECU and that's it) and the rear wheel speed sensor, which plugs into the harness near the rear brake MC. ALL of the ABS brake lines can be removed, I removed all of mine. The Spiegler R6 non-ABS brake line kit is a perfect fit for the front of the bike. I haven't found a rear brake line kit that fits yet, as the distance on the R7 is very short (about 15"). I am currently using one of the short hoses from the ABS system cannibalized, and it's just running from the rear brake MC to the rear brake caliper. You don't need to screw anything into the ABS module, it's easy enough to drain all the fluid out.

Once someone comes out with an ABS delete plug, we'll probably be able to remove the module itself. But according to the awesome service manual I just got, a lot of electronics route through the ABS module, which is why so much gets disabled when you unplug it (speedo, quickshifter, etc). But if you leave the module itself plugged in (even with ALL brake lines removed from it) and the rear wheel speed sensor, both the speedo and the quickshifter work. I have tested this myself with my own bike, and is how I'm going to leave it for now.
 
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