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Yeah, the problem is the brake feel though - the ABS activation itself isn't really bothering me (yet). I just want to bypass the entire system as you did with your R1, then just rip it all out for the weight savings.

How'd you decide between the T-fitting and running it the stock way (hose from MC to caliper, then hose from caliper to other caliper)? I already ordered a spiegler set for the R6, but if it doesn't work out I'll def check out the company you recommended. Thanks!
I had never thought of a T until the fairings were fully off of the R1. I saw that and liked it. I should have taken a pic. It is essentially one line that Tee's, you cannot disconnect it at the Tee. I'll see if I can get a pic of it.
 

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I had never thought of a T until the fairings were fully off of the R1. I saw that and liked it. I should have taken a pic. It is essentially one line that Tee's, you cannot disconnect it at the Tee. I'll see if I can get a pic of it.
Found this thread over on the WERA forums with some discussion and a nice diagram of the options. Sounds like pretty much all options are viable, with MAYBE some extremely minor differences. I honestly don't even know which version is the set I ordered, guess we'll find out soon enough. Brake Line Routing & Performance?
 

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Nice! I am planning to do the free track day that Yamaha gave me at the Autobahn in Joliet, IL. Going to hold off until 2022 though. I want to add a few things first, break in the bike and I need some gear for the track since STT can't rent out gear because of covid.
 

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Awesome, yeah I'd love to hear his observations so far. I don't care too much about losing my speedo (although it would be annoying) and the R7 electronics are pretty simple so there's probably not a lot to be worried about...hopefully.

Yeah, I don't recall engaging the ABS either at my pace, and if it did it wasn't overly intrusive although Thunderhill really only has a couple heavy braking zones. It really makes me roll my eyes at the street riders who feel like the ABS is "holding them back." :rolleyes: And like you I'm only at maybe 80% on the R7 so far, but that's still pushing way harder than I'd ever have the opportunity to ride on the street...

At any rate, I mostly want to get rid of it because of how shitty it makes the brakes feel. And shedding all that extra hose and fluid is a nice weight bonus to boot and simplifies bleeding the brakes and so on. (y) Do you know anyone that's done exhaust/airbox/tuning yet? What are your plans there?
So I rode Laguna Seca on Saturday and I was riding at probably about 70% pace because I like to enjoy Laguna instead of being terrified of it. I never got the ABS to engage. Plus I am sitll on the original S22's. The S22 rear tire is great. The front tire to me isn't that great and when rode it at CVR a few weeks back I actually "recovered" some front end crashes. My wife unfortunately lost the front and crashed my R7. Luckily the only damage was all cosmetic and a front lever. I was able to swap the front lever off my wife's R7 before the Laguna trip.

This weekend I am back at Chuckwalla Valley Raceway and there is definitely a hard braking area (Turn 10 CCW) so I actually may see if I can actually get ABS to engage to get a feel how intrusive it is....maybe to the point where I actually run off track. If it isn't too intrusive I may just keep it on. I do plan on bringing some slick take offs I have and will replace as needed. I would not be surprised if I love the S22 rear with a Pirelli DOT or slick since there many times I have raced on mismatched sets and so far the S22 rear hasn't broken loose on me.
 

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So I rode Laguna Seca on Saturday and I was riding at probably about 70% pace because I like to enjoy Laguna instead of being terrified of it. I never got the ABS to engage. Plus I am sitll on the original S22's. The S22 rear tire is great. The front tire to me isn't that great and when rode it at CVR a few weeks back I actually "recovered" some front end crashes. My wife unfortunately lost the front and crashed my R7. Luckily the only damage was all cosmetic and a front lever. I was able to swap the front lever off my wife's R7 before the Laguna trip.

This weekend I am back at Chuckwalla Valley Raceway and there is definitely a hard braking area (Turn 10 CCW) so I actually may see if I can actually get ABS to engage to get a feel how intrusive it is....maybe to the point where I actually run off track. If it isn't too intrusive I may just keep it on. I do plan on bringing some slick take offs I have and will replace as needed. I would not be surprised if I love the S22 rear with a Pirelli DOT or slick since there many times I have raced on mismatched sets and so far the S22 rear hasn't broken loose on me.
So I rode Laguna Seca on Saturday and I was riding at probably about 70% pace because I like to enjoy Laguna instead of being terrified of it. I never got the ABS to engage. Plus I am sitll on the original S22's. The S22 rear tire is great. The front tire to me isn't that great and when rode it at CVR a few weeks back I actually "recovered" some front end crashes. My wife unfortunately lost the front and crashed my R7. Luckily the only damage was all cosmetic and a front lever. I was able to swap the front lever off my wife's R7 before the Laguna trip.

This weekend I am back at Chuckwalla Valley Raceway and there is definitely a hard braking area (Turn 10 CCW) so I actually may see if I can actually get ABS to engage to get a feel how intrusive it is....maybe to the point where I actually run off track. If it isn't too intrusive I may just keep it on. I do plan on bringing some slick take offs I have and will replace as needed. I would not be surprised if I love the S22 rear with a Pirelli DOT or slick since there many times I have raced on mismatched sets and so far the S22 rear hasn't broken loose on me.
How many miles on it now? My rear was done at 1000. But you are just riding it on the track right? Also, you are a bit smaller than my boy and I.
 

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How many miles on it now? My rear was done at 1000. But you are just riding it on the track right? Also, you are a bit smaller than my boy and I.
1317 miles on the odometer. I was commuting on it for a little but it will be dedicated track. I was running 42 psi cold in the rear when commuting on it and 26 psi cold in the rear when it is at the track.
 

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1317 miles on the odometer. I was commuting on it for a little but it will be dedicated track. I was running 42 psi cold in the rear when commuting on it and 26 psi cold in the rear when it is at the track.
It is such a fun bike on the track, I can hardly wait to get back out there. Hopefully I am ready by the first track days in the new year. Fingers crossed.
 

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What’s the opinions On the rebound damper? Just got my wifes bike home, I track an older race prepped zx6r, have a daytona 675 in the garage that’s tracked, I street ride a Duke 890r and the r7 front end damping feels like a bowl of jello. No info on race tech yet, anyone putting thicker oil in the rebound leg? I’m assuming a 10wt would be thicker than stock?
 

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The spring rates are actually pretty reasonable for the average sized rider (either who fits on the bike or who rides it like it was meant to). If the rider is north of 200 lbs in gear or is using it at the track, higher rates are warranted. For everyone else, not as much.

But back to your question on the damping. It's very soft from the factory and the adjuster doesn't do much. Dialing the rebound damping almost all the way in helps, but it's still too fast. And for what it's worth, the same can be said for the compression leg. The fork dive is pretty excessive, which initially cries for heavier springs...but it's the damping (or lack thereof).

You can try heavier oil on the rebound leg, but I wouldn't advise it on the compression leg as it'll increase the high speed compression too much and degrade ride quality. Keep in mind that heavier oil flows less at cooler temps, so it'll make the fork sluggish. That may or may not apply where/how your wife rides, but keep it in mind.

We developed a solid fork piston kit which addresses the issues you're referring to without breaking the bank. Hit us up for details...now that I type this, I realized that we never added it to our website...but will get on that.
 

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The spring rates are actually pretty reasonable for the average sized rider (either who fits on the bike or who rides it like it was meant to). If the rider is north of 200 lbs in gear or is using it at the track, higher rates are warranted. For everyone else, not as much.

But back to your question on the damping. It's very soft from the factory and the adjuster doesn't do much. Dialing the rebound damping almost all the way in helps, but it's still too fast. And for what it's worth, the same can be said for the compression leg. The fork dive is pretty excessive, which initially cries for heavier springs...but it's the damping (or lack thereof).

You can try heavier oil on the rebound leg, but I wouldn't advise it on the compression leg as it'll increase the high speed compression too much and degrade ride quality. Keep in mind that heavier oil flows less at cooler temps, so it'll make the fork sluggish. That may or may not apply where/how your wife rides, but keep it in mind.

We developed a solid fork piston kit which addresses the issues you're referring to without breaking the bank. Hit us up for details...now that I type this, I realized that we never added it to our website...but will get on that.
‘Thanks Nick, I followed your progress on the fz09 forums right up to the point of dragging my own stator on the track and wrecking mine! Will check out your pistons I was on the site the other day and didn’t see anything but springs and the oil at the time.’

cheers
 

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So, I rode my R7 for the first time at Pitt Race, OH. overall, I love my bike. I built out the bike for track-only riding, minus suspension (at least for now). one thing I noticed, when approaching a corner and coming in hot, braking hard before tipping in, would make the bike wobble...was a very strange feeling. Not something I felt on my R3 other than standard chatter when braking hard. anyone else experiences this? I am at 204lbs, and talking to another rider who also experiences the same thing, and his bike has full suspension. He thinks it may just be because the frame on the R7 is very "flexy". It is disconcerting and would like to find a solution here. I was running Pirelli TrackDay tires.
 

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So, I rode my R7 for the first time at Pitt Race, OH. overall, I love my bike. I built out the bike for track-only riding, minus suspension (at least for now). one thing I noticed, when approaching a corner and coming in hot, braking hard before tipping in, would make the bike wobble...was a very strange feeling. Not something I felt on my R3 other than standard chatter when braking hard. anyone else experiences this? I am at 204lbs, and talking to another rider who also experiences the same thing, and his bike has full suspension. He thinks it may just be because the frame on the R7 is very "flexy". It is disconcerting and would like to find a solution here. I was running Pirelli TrackDay tires.
So the bike "wobbles" when braking hard when straight up and down? That could be any number of things including the the rear being unweighted, and also a significant loss of trail, and possibly even fork bottoming because the fork springs are collapsed. Your weight is a bit too high for the stock fork springs. Both ends of the stock suspension are also significantly underdamped, especially for someone your weight, which will make the front end dive even worse. What sort of pace were you running? The faster your pace (especially with you being a big boy), the less adequate the stock suspension is going to be.
 

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So the bike "wobbles" when braking hard when straight up and down? That could be any number of things including the the rear being unweighted, and also a significant loss of trail, and possibly even fork bottoming because the fork springs are collapsed. Your weight is a bit too high for the stock fork springs. Both ends of the stock suspension are also significantly underdamped, especially for someone your weight, which will make the front end dive even worse. What sort of pace were you running? The faster your pace (especially with you being a big boy), the less adequate the stock suspension is going to be.
I run a pretty decent pace for sure with late hard braking. Kind of what i am used to doing with r3. So, from what i am reading, replace the stock suspension to start. Heh. Was hoping to wait until next year for those upgrades.
 

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I run a pretty decent pace for sure with late hard braking. Kind of what i am used to doing with r3. So, from what i am reading, replace the stock suspension to start. Heh. Was hoping to wait until next year for those upgrades.
"Late hard braking"... you could be applying front brake a bit too abruptly, which would aggravate the front end diving under braking. FWIW, Pitt is a track which rewards trail braking immensely, more than demanding hard straight up braking to get around briskly.

Short of replacing the suspension there are a few things you could do to reduce front end dive and bottoming (if that is what you're experiencing-- do you have a ty-wrap on a fork tube to show how much travel you're using?). Adding fork oil would firm up the last inch of fork travel and could keep you from bottoming the fork. Also, adding fork preload would reduce your loss of front ride height under braking. Heavier fork oil would firm up the damping on both rebound and compression, which wouldn't hurt either. One other thought, how much air pressure were you running in the front tire and what tire? With insufficient front tire pressure, you could be causing the tire to distort and squirm under heavy load. Tire pressure is always a balancing act; soft enough to get good grip but not so soft that the contact patch distorts badly or overheats.

I asked about pace because that info is important to understanding the loads a rider puts on a bike's suspension. For a given rider at Pitt on a lightweight twin, lap times in the 2:10-2:05 range, and sub-2:00 to below 1:55 necessarily place very different loads on the tires and, therefore, call for very different suspension settings.
 

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"Late hard braking"... you could be applying front brake a bit too abruptly, which would aggravate the front end diving under braking. FWIW, Pitt is a track which rewards trail braking immensely, more than demanding hard straight up braking to get around briskly.

Short of replacing the suspension there are a few things you could do to reduce front end dive and bottoming (if that is what you're experiencing-- do you have a ty-wrap on a fork tube to show how much travel you're using?). Adding fork oil would firm up the last inch of fork travel and could keep you from bottoming the fork. Also, adding fork preload would reduce your loss of front ride height under braking. Heavier fork oil would firm up the damping on both rebound and compression, which wouldn't hurt either. One other thought, how much air pressure were you running in the front tire and what tire? With insufficient front tire pressure, you could be causing the tire to distort and squirm under heavy load. Tire pressure is always a balancing act; soft enough to get good grip but not so soft that the contact patch distorts badly or overheats.

I asked about pace because that info is important to understanding the loads a rider puts on a bike's suspension. For a given rider at Pitt on a lightweight twin, lap times in the 2:10-2:05 range, and sub-2:00 to below 1:55 necessarily place very different loads on the tires and, therefore, call for very different suspension settings.
Thanks, great info. I didn't keep track of pace, but will check next time I am at pitt. Will be at NC bike this coming weekend, so maybe I'll track there. As far as tire pressures go, i run Pirelli TDs, and run 26 rear and 31 front cold.
 
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